Church of San Lorenzo in Piscibus – deserted and modernized, yet moving

Church of San Lorenzo in Piscibus squeezed in between buildings constructed during Mussolini’s times

Church of San Lorenzo in Piscibus squeezed in between buildings constructed during Mussolini’s times

There are just a few of those who have ever visited this tiny, hidden away from tourists church, dedicated to St. Lawrence, even though it is located near the most frequented tourist route, just a few steps away from St. Peter’s Basilica on the Vatican (San Pietro in Vaticano). The church itself also seems to be standing with its back towards visitors. Its broad apse is the thing that is best visible to passersby. If they became curious about the building, they would see something truly exceptional in Rome – a medieval church which is completely surrounded by modern buildings.

Church of San Lorenzo in Piscibus squeezed in between buildings constructed during Mussolini’s times
Church of San Lorenzo in Piscibus, apse – view from via Borgo Santo Spirito
Church of San Lorenzo in Piscibus, façade of the old church, view from Piazza Rusticucci, pic. Wikipedia, author – Christianpppp
Interior of the Baroque Church of San Lorenzo in Piscibus prior to re-Romanization in the 50’s of the XX century,  Photograph, Museo di Roma
Map depicting location of the church (marked in red), former Piazza Rusticucci is the present-day Piazza Pio XII
Church of San Lorenzo in Piscibus, church campanile, 1937, Museo di Roma
Façade leading into the Church of San Lorenzo in Piscibus before deconstruction – in the northern part of Piazza Rusticucci
View of the Borgo prior to 1922, Piazza Rusticucci marked in pink, pic. Wikipedia
Church of San Lorenzo in Piscibus, interior of the current church, reconstruction from the 50’s of the XX century
Church of San Lorenzo in Piscibus, church apse
Church of San Lorenzo in Piscibus, interior of the current church, reconstruction from the 50’s of the XX century
San Lorenzo in Piscibus, church nave
San Lorenzo in Piscibus, church interior
Church of San Lorenzo in Piscibus, bells from the structure taken down in the 30’s of the XX century
Church of San Lorenzo in Piscibus
Church of San Lorenzo in Piscibus
San Lorenzo in Piscibus, church façade
San Lorenzo in Piscibus, church façade
Church of San Lorenzo in Piscibus squeezed in between buildings constructed during Mussolini’s times

There are just a few of those who have ever visited this tiny, hidden away from tourists church, dedicated to St. Lawrence, even though it is located near the most frequented tourist route, just a few steps away from St. Peter’s Basilica on the Vatican (San Pietro in Vaticano). The church itself also seems to be standing with its back towards visitors. Its broad apse is the thing that is best visible to passersby. If they became curious about the building, they would see something truly exceptional in Rome – a medieval church which is completely surrounded by modern buildings.

 

Not long ago, the church enterance in the past known under the name of San Lorenzo in Borgo, or more informally San Lorenzino (St. Larry), was located at the broad Piazza Rusticucci, a sort of an entry to the Square of St. Peter. First historical mention of it, comes from 1143. It was dedicated to St. Lawrence – one of the most popular Roman saints, while another nickname, piscibus, it most likely acquired on from the nearby fish market.

It was a three-nave basilica with a broad apse and small window openings, which was adorned with columns dividing it into naves. We know nothing about its furnishings. A small bell tower (campanile), which is barely visible today,  was another important element, typical for Roman structures.

In the middle of the XVII century the church was thoroughly reconstructed in a new Baroque style at the behest of the Cesi family. It was located on their property and in time became a private church. In the following century it came into the possession of the Order of the Piarists, and at that time is rococo façade was built. And so it would have survived until our times, were it not for the ambitious plans of Benito Mussolini, who in the 1930’s decided to build a communications artery the via della Conciliazione (Road of Reconciliation), connecting the Vatican with the rest of Rome. It was to celebrate the alliance between the Holy See and Mussolini’s state, of which the result was the Lateran Accords (1929). Due to the construction of this representative tract, the rococo façade which was in the way, was demolished, while its body which threatened to collapse also suffered. It was completely surrounded by new, representative buildings of the new street.


It again drew interest in the fifties of the XX century. Restoration and modernization of the building was undertaken, and along with it the XVII-century frescos of Michelangelo Riccioni found in the church interior were destroyed. This occurred because later reconstructions were not taken into account and the Roman appearance of the church was restored. For decades it served as a warehouse, a school, and in the seventies even as a sculptural atelier. Today squeezed in between the buildings of the Palazzo detto dei Propilei, it is only visible from the side of via Borgo Santo Spirito. It was not until 1983 that the building once again regained its original religious function, thanks to the endeavors of Pope John Paul II, who once again consecrated it, at the same time funding the San Lorenzo International Center (Centro San Lorenzo), located right next door. The body of the church, as well as its interior are simple, almost ascetic – unknown in Rome; where we are used to rich decorations of sacral interiors. The roof is finished off with a timber truss, while the church’s brick walls are bereft of plaster or any decorations. We could say that it is filled with a medieval almost mystic aura, mood which we generally connect with Roman structures. In this raw and simple interior we feel well, nearly forgetting about the wrongdoings which this church incurred, having been so dramatically squeezed in between the surrounding buildings.

 

Enterance to the church at via Borgo Santo Spirito, door on the right side of the apse (must ring bell).

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